![]() There are several that need to be released. The clips that hold the lower cover to the fuse box assembly. Notice the vehicle paint color has changed. I have added some new pictures to hopefully better show how this is done. The larger cover under the box also has to have it’s locking tabs released because both of the lower pieces have to slide down, out or off of the main box at the same time. You can use a small screwdriver blade to depress the tabs from the outside of the box. There are two locking tabs that have to be released from the inner slot and then the bracket will slide down and off of the fuse box assembly. Now the bottom bracket had to be removed. Once the wiring was loose, the panel that they were connected to would slide up and out of the main fuse box assembly. All of the connectors have latches that have to be depressed before they can be pulled loose. The next thing I decided to remove was the alternator lead and the three white harness connectors. Depressing that tab from the rear and pushing it towards the front of the vehicle allowed the tab to come right out. ![]() A little gentle prying exposed the retention tab located towards the rear of the vehicle. Once the bolts are removed, the box still did not want to move very well and I found a peg that had a slight friction grip to the inner fender panel. There are two bolts along the upper edge as well. This same repair also applies to the 2007 year model so my assumption would be that it also applies to the 2008 year model. It can be removed without taking the battery out but the fuse box cannot be disassembled with the battery in place. The bottom bolt had been under the plastic battery tray. Once it was out of the way I started unbolting the underhood fuse box assembly. To see that post please click here.The next step to repair this vehicle was to remove the battery and battery tray. Always keep in mind that you need to do the replacement of the fuse using the puller, to avoid any injury.In the last post about this 2009 Toyota Camry, I had diagnosed a blown multi fuse link assembly. If the fuse is damaged, you need to replace it, plugging a new one at the slot from where you removed the original one. In the case the fuse is tripped or blown, the meter will read infinite. Once you have the links of the meter on the sides of the fuse, the meter will show zero if the cartridge fuse works properly. The next step is about testing the fuse: take the fuse you have removed from the slot on a table and use the multimeter, setting it first to continuity, which means that you need to make sure it is set at the lower mark. Use the fuse puller in the middle part of the cartridge fuse and pull it out of the slot. Open the panel and find the cartridge you want to test. The next thing you need to do is remove the cartridge fuse from the panel slots. You can check your electric panel at home and see what type of cartridge you have. Older and larger buildings usually have the knife blade fuses. ![]() Smaller and newer buildings have the cylindrical fuse which has some sensitive links at its ends, wrapped with copper or any other type of conducting material. There are two basic types of cartridge fuses available, so it all depends on the age and size of the house. Get to Know the Cartridge Fuseīefore you test the fuse, you need to know what it is about. You should have a pair of fuse pullers with you, which can be found at any local hardware store, or a store with electrical equipment. Moreover, you need to use only proper tools and materials, as well as protective gear. One of the first things you need to do is go to the panel, turn it off completely, and then begin with the testing. Preparation is very important when it comes to testing a cartridge fuse because you will need to take all necessary precautionary measures to be safe and avoid electrocution.
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